Up drives a minibus into the middle of the field and the cassette is now inserted into the car stereo and the kids are soon dancing away with smiles on their faces and everyone in the crowd is happy to see the show has started. Everyone except the cows, which were forced to watch from the sidelines, but not before leaving an impressive number of Olympic sized turds scattered throughout the dancing arena. The local fishermen and farmers are catching up on a little social time while watching the dance, the kids are finally dancing (and skillfully dodging the cow poop) with plenty of power from the car stereo, the rain has not yet arrived, and Gary is finally smiling as the cute little girls and boys are swaying their hips in rhythm………Just another day in Saparua.
Saparua Island is located in the Lease Group (pronounced Laysay) about 15 miles east of Ambon, Maluku Province. There are three islands in the Lease group; Haruku, Saparua, and Nusa Laut. The islands here are still quite rural with most of the local inhabitants working as fishermen and farmers. ‘Adat’ traditions are very strong here as a number of unusual cultural traditions are still carried out here on a seasonal basis. For example, a form of indigenous natural resource protection called sasi has been practiced here for centuries.
Sasi law comes in two forms; ocean sasi and forest sasi and at a local level is extremely effective at prohibiting the catching of certain fish or the harvesting of certain forest products for a designated period of time, which is usually one full season. Negative social sanctions are strictly enforced if one breaks sasi law. In the village of Sosoi on the southeast coast of Saparua, there is a sasi prohibition in place for the harvesting of coconuts, which expires on March 20 of this year. In this same village there is also a current sasi ban on harvesting lobster until October of this year.
Other resources that are also protected under sasi law are cloves, nutmeg, and kenari (tropical almonds) and also trepang, which is better known as sea cucumber. All of these foodstuffs have been highly desired trade items over the centuries and it is not surprising that such a system has been created to fulfill the annual requirements of keeping stocks sufficient for when the traders come calling each year. This ingenious method of maintaining healthy food stocks in both land and sea has kept the ecological balance in check for as long as time and is a predecessor to any organized religion arriving in the area. Another ancient tradition that is still carried on in Saparua is the pela ceremony. Pela, a vow of brotherhood, is an alliance between villages that transcends religious affiliation. Such vows required the villages to help each other in times of need, and also to cooperate in building houses of worship. The long running Suharto government did little to encourage this form of indigenous village alliance, however Pela continues on in the Lease group.
I was told by elders in Sosoi village that there is a planned Pela ceremony later this year between Tuhaha, a Christian village in Saparua and Rohomoni, a Muslim village on Haruku island just to the west. The ritual involves ceremonially pricking each other fingers and having a drop of blood fall into coconuts, which is drunk by each respective headman. Blood brothers to the end; drums, war canoes, and ancient song and dance soon follow! Needless to say, Pela alliances existed before trial lawyers ever saw the light of day!
Saparua’s most famous citizen was a determined young man by the name of Thomas Matulessy. Fort Duurstede, built by the Dutch colonial government in 1676 in Saparua Bay, was stormed and captured by Matulessy and his followers on May 16, 1817 and the Dutch (with one exception) were all slaughtered on the spot that fateful morning. He was christened Pattimura (The Generous Lion Hearted One) because he spared the 6 year old son of his enemy commander, and he was executed by the Dutch shortly after his capture. Jean Lubbert, the 6-year-old son of the murdered Dutch general, attended the execution as Pattimura uttered his last words, ‘Gentlemen, enjoy your stay here in Maluku.’
The child was transferred to The Netherlands in 1820 and until today, his family officially goes by the name of ‘Van den Berg van Saparua’. I made a point to visit the house where Thomas Matulessy was born. As I entered the well kept house/museum, I was honored to meet Mr. Frans Matulessy, the ninth generation descendent of Kapitan Pattimura. He was a quiet man, both friendly and serious, and was well built and I was happy that I did not introduce myself as being Dutch! ( a little joke here- all are welcome) Frans took out original Dutch documents from 1817 (they need to get laminated!) and also showed me Pattimura’s original sword and hat that was worn on that famous day in 1817. It is worth a visit to the Matulessy house for any student of Maluku history.
What’s happening in Saparua these days for the inquisitive adventurer? Well, the diving off Molana and Nusa Laut islands, located just offshore to the south, is absolute world class. Deserted beaches are dotted around the island with special mention made to Laino Beach in the west. As usual in Maluku, westerners can walk the beaches here in solitude and not get accosted by locals trying to sell trinkets! There are nice forest walks, the very interesting village of Ouw that still make traditional hand made pottery, a visit to Fort Duurstede and the adjacent museum (bring a flashlight to see the displays), the northwest village of Kulur, which boasts the Cave of the Seven Princesses with a fresh water spring inside, and the Wednesday and Saturday market in Saparua town that sees all manner of bizarre items for sale by many Haruku and Nusa Laut islanders that attend each week. Saparua is a much lesser known destination compared to regional neighbors like Ambon and Banda, but for great diving with no crowds, leisurely beachcombing, history, easily arranged music and dance performances, and a good deal of ‘hammock’ time, this is an island that still feels like it is nowhere even close to the 21st century.
Travel and Accomodation details:
There are daily flights to Ambon from Bali and Jakarta. Ambon is the gateway point into Maluku province.
There are daily ferries from Tulehu in Ambon to Haria on the west coast of Saparua. It’s a 2 hour pleasant trip on a public ferry twice a day.
Maluku Divers can handle all your diving and adventure travel needs while in Ambon or Saparua. (
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Accomodation at Laino Beach guesthouse is simple and can be arranged by using Maluku Divers as your local agent.
HOW TO GET THERE: